wind chill: 1°C
wind speed: 20 km/h
wind direction: north
Day 3 ended and Day 4 began on a frozen lake high above Tromsø town. With our sights set on making a time-lapse of our snow head with the northern lights in the background we hauled all of our equipment up the black ice and snow lined streets to a spot were light pollution was minimal.
Making a night time base on top of a rock overlooking the snow covered lake and clear Arctic sky we set about making a snow head and arranging the camera ready to capture the aurora.
Here we found a new kind of snow. Impossibly hard and slippery interspersed with powder so fragile we disappeared deep down into it, casting the head and setting up the camera was a mammoth task. Finally ready we waited on our rock bench for the display, and we waited, and we.. yes aurora did show herself but soon vanished again into the Arctic darkness and stars. At 1am we made our slippery way back down and very gratefully into bed.
10am we met with Sivelii, a journalist who writes for Tromsø’s local paper iTromsø. We explained Switching Heads and she gave us some great tips for our coming days.
In the afternoon we set up a new snow head and our camera outside the Polar Museum ready to interview Christina an archaeologist who is currently working for the Museum. She came armed with tales of Norwegian expeditions through out history, tales of life, death, scurvy and Polar expedition heroines.
Recycling the snow (its getting alarmingly thin on the ground) we set up again in a nearby spot as we had invited local artist Matti to join us to talk about his work and the art scene in Tromsø. In the dimming light at the end of an Arctic day Matti told us about Sami culture, art and politics, reindeer herders, climate change and the best bars in Tromsø, as well as the exciting network of artists, musicians and creative people living and working here.
Shattered and battered we are back in our cosy hostel listening to today's binaural recordings, so immersive we could be back on the Tromsø docks. We could not be happier.
Holly Owen & Kristina Pulejkova